现在回想起来，事情还真没那么简单。念青唐古拉山是藏人朝圣的三大神山之一，风景很美。而转山朝圣由来已久。笃信佛教的藏人认为：朝圣能尽涤前世今生的罪孽，增添无穷的功德，并最终脱出轮回，荣登极乐。但对信仰并不坚定的我来说，还是很难理解为什么总是有人，以独有的磕长头的方式俯仰于天地之间，向圣地跋涉。

Everything happens for a reason.

On February 2017, I was told by a friend of mine, that Damxung Changtang Cultural and Traveling Development Co., Ltd. was going to build a viewing platform which faces to the highest peak of Nyainqêntanglha Mountains and the theme of this building is “the Black Tent”. I accepted this Invitation without a second thought. The following design and construction of the project were finally accomplished in the process of causing and solving problems.

Recently I have recalled the whole experience and found out that situations we dealt with were more complicated than my expectations.

The Nyainqêntanglha Mountain range is one of the three sacred mountains for Tibetan pilgrims and it enjoys a fantastic natural view. Making a Pilgrimage to the sacred mountains has been a popular and important ritual for a long time. It is believed by Tibetan people who have faith in Buddhism that pilgrimage could wash away their previous sins and reincarnate into a better next life. However, for someone who do not firmly believe in Buddhism, like me, it is hard to understand that Tibetan pilgrims choose to kowtow along the road during their pilgrimage to sacred mountains and lakes.

▼建筑南侧透视图，South side of the building ©王子凌

3 月初，来到现场，我被念青唐古拉山的纯净与神圣所深深震撼，山脚下开阔的羌塘草原充满着勃勃生机，孕育了藏北牧民的朴实与虔诚。那一片美丽的天地是上苍的赐福，让我们在这里安居乐业，但如果缺少了世人的精心呵护，净土也就不存在。我默默地期盼，地球上所有的人都能享受到这片绝美的天地，第三级是属于整个世界的。但我更希望，来到这里的每一个人能把这片美好永远留在心里，带回去，把自己的家乡建设成圣地。

When I first arrived at the site in early March, I was shocked by the purity and sacredness of Nyainqêntanglha Mountains. ChangTang Grassland was vast and vibrant, which nurtures the simple and devoted characters of Northern Tibetan herders. The beauty here is a gift from nature, which enables us to live a fulfilled life in such a beautiful and peaceful environment. However, pure land would disappear without the care and love of people. I hope that everyone in the world could have the chance to experience the beauty here because the third pole belongs to the whole world. And most importantly, it would be perfect if everyone who came here could keep the sense of happiness in their deep heart and bring them home. In this way, they could make their hometown a pure and better land.

▼雪山下的羌塘草原，ChangTang Grassland©德庆曲珍

黑帐篷是当地游牧藏民的家，我们希望观景平台也是未来游客的家，它是从草原上生长出来的。后来随着设计思路的进一步完善，整个的空间转化成一个微缩的朝圣体验过程，通过静谧地感知念青唐古拉山与羌塘草原的美和力量，激发出游客对天地、对亲人、和对生活的爱。

Black tents are homes for nomadic Tibetans. We expect that the viewing platform would be the home for future tourists and this building would be like growing out from the grassland. Following the development of the design, the spaces of the building have turned into a short pilgrimage experience. After comprehending the Nyainqêntanglha Mountains and ChangTang Grassland’s beauty and power, tourists could inspire their love for families, lives and the mother earth.

观景平台，viewing platform©PURE

当雄的领导很开明，一下子就通过了方案，要求尽快建设完工。由于工期紧，整个团队又是初次合作，项目经历了一些原本没有想到的波折。但很庆幸，在每个关键的时候，团队间没有相互指责，只有包容和支持。在每一次的困难中，伙伴们看见了自己内心的波动，看到了大家认知的不同，但同时也确信了一点，任何一个项目，从萌芽的那一刻起，它就不从属于任何一个个体，而是这方水土这方人。抱着这样的信念，没有什么不可以跨越。

▼从西北侧望向主峰，view to the highest peak from northwest

2018 年国庆节，项目正式开放。回想起这一年半来的点点滴滴，我深深地感受到，虽然波折不断，但在这个为众人创造朝圣体验的过程中，获益最大的其实是我们自己。这是一趟回归初心、不计回报、不退缩的旅程，如果把初心比作一片圣地的话，每一次大家放下自我，全力投入，实现超越的过程，就是一次朝圣。内心的这片圣地，请好好耕耘。

On the National Day of 2018, this viewing platform was open to public officially. Every second in this year and a half reminds me of that although we went through many challenges and obstacles, we gained the most eventually. The design process is like a persistent outside-to-inside journey regardless of making a profit. If we compare our true heart to a pure land, we are making our own pilgrimage once we give up our egos, and devote ourselves wholly to something meaningful and achieve the transcension.

The true heart also needs to be cared and loved deeply.

▼场地鸟瞰，项目位于在从拉萨通往纳木错湖的必经之路上，aerial view: the project is located beside the road from Lhasa to Lake Namsto©王子凌

项目位于当雄县境内的羊八井镇，海拔 4300 米，在从拉萨通往纳木错湖的必经之路上，也是途中观赏 7100 米高的念青唐古拉山主峰的第一个点。基地周围是作为游牧保护区的羌塘草原，不仅有着优越的生态条件，更存留着如黑帐篷这样典型的藏北游牧文化象征。

The project is located in Yangbajing town, Damxung County, which is at an altitude of 4,300 metres. On the way from Lhasa to Lake Namsto, it is the first spot for tourists to see the highest peak of Nyainqêntanglha Mountains (7100 metres high above sea level). The site is surrounded by Changtang Grassland, the nomadic protected area. So it enjoys not only an exceeding eco-environment but also the Northern Tibetan nomadic culture symbol such as black tents.

▼建筑鸟瞰，aerial view of the project©王子凌

建筑主入口处是一个下沉广场，建筑形体从这向两端逐渐升高。起伏的形体，结合建筑立面采用的黑色塑木板，仿佛从地上生长起来的一个黑帐篷。”V” 型的空间布局，向外打开，拥抱着羌塘草原和对面起伏的群山，将无限风光尽收眼底的同时，也自然而然地融入了整体自然环境。

▼体块生成和组织示意，massing and layout diagram

The main entrance of this building is a sunken plaza, from here, the form of building becomes uphill gradually. Both the wave-like form and the building material（(black plastic wood panel) have made the building a black tent growing from the earth. Allowing tourists to embrace Changtang Grassland and the mountains, this “V”shape building layout has also become an important part of natural environment.

东侧透视图，East side of the building©南木加

▼ 西北侧透视图，Northern-west side of the building©王子凌

游客中心 700 平方米的建筑面积中，包含了餐饮、如厕、文创产品展售和主峰观景四大主要功能。V 字型的两条廊，其中面对主峰的一条是观景平台，另一条是餐厅与洗手间。

从入口的下沉广场到最终的心灵邮局，我们内心的状态经历了从谦卑、寂静、朝圣、祈福、感悟、自在到传递这七个过程，因此，这既是一次面对念青唐古拉山的朝圣，也是一次对自己的身心洗礼。

This 700-square-meter visitor center project contains the function of catering, toilet, handicraft shop and viewing platform.The “V”shape form consists of 2 linear spaces; one is a viewing platform facing to the highest peak of Nyainqêntanglha Mountains, the other space is for restaurant and toilet. Through the whole journey, from the sunken plaza to Mind Post, our internal state will experience 7 different phases including humility, silence, pilgrimage, blessing, reflection, freedom and share. Therefore, this visiting experience is not only a pilgrimage to Nyainqêntanglha Mountains but also a baptism of our body and mind.

从下沉广场望向建筑，view to the building from the sunken plaza

下沉广场的入口希望人们在进入观景平台之前能够保持一种谦卑的姿态，向下走，往内收，回归平静。每走一步，视平线景观就消减一分，最后只剩下头顶的蓝天。

The sunken plaza entrance aims to enable tourists to stay humble before entering the viewing platform. Going down and inside, there is less and less landscape around us, the blue sky above is what we can only enjoy in the end.

下沉广场入口，Sunken plaza entrance©王子凌

推开门，里面是一段狭长的斜步道，除了阳光投下的影子，只有耳边萦绕的风声与牦牛声，心渐渐安静下来了。往前一步，往上升高一些，对远方多了一份渴望。走到端头，你发现自己飘浮于草原之上，视线豁然开朗，念青唐古拉山主峰就在眼前。

Inside the door, there will be an indoor slope – the viewing gallery. Walking along the gallery, we can only see the shadow of sunlight and hear the sound of wind and yaks. At the end of the slope, you will find yourself like floating above the Changtang Grassland, with a wide-open sight of the highest peak of Nyainqêntanglha Mountains.

观景长廊，Viewing gallery©南木加

寂静之后，走到端头，你发现自己飘浮于草原之上，视线豁然开朗，念青唐古拉山主峰就在眼前。远望神山、近观草原，云在心头，心在云间。

After the silence, you will find yourself like floating above the Changtang Grassland, with a wide-open sight of the highest peak of Nyainqêntanglha Mountains. Surrounded by such incredible natural beauty, all the tourists would be able to throw away their worries and let the eternal happiness grow.

观景平台，Viewing platform©王子凌

走下观景平台的台阶，是由石头垒成的环形“生命尽头”项目，站在中心体会藏人对自然的谦卑与对生命的尊重，同时为自己、家人、朋友祈福。

After stepping down from the viewing platform, the “End of Life” landscape project built by stone has come into sight. Standing in the center of the circle, we are able to experience Tibetans’ respect for nature and life. Meanwhile, we can choose to pray for our friends and family.

▼由石头垒成的“生命尽头”项目，The“End of Life”project built by stone©王子凌

沿着石头小径步入一号庭院，回头面对念青唐古拉山，感受那份宁静与广阔，深深地吸一口气，品味着这一段旅程。

Walking along the stone path, we are entering the 1# courtyard. Touched by the purity and silence, we can choose to have a deep breath and recall the countless amazing memories this journey has left us.

▼一号庭院，1#Courtyard

信步走入院边的牛粪餐厅，一股温暖的气息扑鼻而来。这里没有了登山朝圣的严肃，取而代之的是日常生活的朴实与平凡。坐下来，喝一口酥油茶，与同行之人细语交谈，感受彼此的心路旅程，无比轻松自在。

Drinking a cup of butter tea in restaurant, exchanging the thoughts and ideas of the whole journey with friends, we would feel relaxed and familiar rather than feeling serious and nervous like we are climbing a mountain.

▼餐厅，Restaurant©南木加，PURE

临行前，来到牧心邮局，挑一张藏民手工制作的名信片，迎着暖暖的阳光，为心爱的人送上一份来自高原的真情祝福。正是这份爱，让我们再远的距离也能彼此相连，再高的山峰也能共同攀登。

Mind Post is the last stop of this journey. Picking a handmade postcard for people you really love and writing down your appreciation for them would be an unforgettable experience. It is love that enables us to connect over long distance and to climb the mountain together regardless of the height.

▼牧心邮局的透视图，Rendering of Mind Post

▼接待中心一层平面图，Visitor Center – Ground Floor Plan

▼接待中心剖面图 1-1，Visitor Center – Section1-1

▼接待中心剖面图 2-2，Visitor Center – Section 2-2

▼观景平台纵剖面构造图，Longitudinal Section Detail of Viewing Platform

▼观景平台横剖面构造图，Cross Section Detail of Viewing Platform

▼餐厅剖面构造图，Restaurant – Section Detail

▼接待中心走廊剖面构造图，Visitor Center Corridor – Section Detail

项目名称：西藏当雄羊八井 行者 · 黑帐篷 项目类型：建筑设计、室内设计、景观设计 项目地点：西藏自治区当雄县羊八井镇 项目发起人、文化及品牌策划单位：当雄县羌塘文旅公司 项目运营单位：当雄县羌塘文旅公司 设计单位：PURE建筑师事务所 设计合伙人：施国平、唐亮 设计团队：施一峰（项目建筑师）、靳珂、冯建华、曹秀文（室内主创）、徐景彦、付婧蕾、张达（实习）、许恬（实习） 驻场设计：薛楚金、张达（实习）、何婷婷、冯建华 建成状态：建成 设计时间：2017.04 – 2017.08 建设时间：2017.07 – 2018.09 用地面积：15200平方米 建筑面积：700平方米 建筑结构：钢框架结构 结构：彭礼、王明兴 机电设计顾问：许晓峰（水）、杜峰（电）、兰玉伦（暖） 生态厕所顾问：邹海 幕墙顾问：解再兴 施工：江苏省启安建设集团有限公司 主要建筑材料：黑色塑木板 主要景观材料：山南石板岩 摄影师：王子凌、南木加、德庆曲珍、PURE建筑师事务所

Project Name: Traveler · Black Tent in Yangbajing, Damxung

Project Type: Architectural Design, Interior Design, Landscape Design

Location: Yangbajing town, Damxung country, Tibet Autonomous Region of China

Project Sponsor, Cultural & Brand Planning: Damxung Changtang Cultural and Traveling Development Co., Ltd.

Operating Company: Damxung Changtang Cultural and Traveling Development Co., Ltd.

Design: PURE Architecture

Design Partners: Shi Guoping, Tang Liang

Design Team: Shi Yifeng(Project Manager), Jin Ke, Feng Jianhua, Cao Xiuwen(Interior Design Manager), Xu Jingyan, Fu Jinglei, Zhang Da(Intern), Xu Tian(Intern)Field Designer: Xue Chujin, Zhang Da (Intern), He Tingting, Feng Jianhua

Design/Built:2017.04-2017.08/ 2017.07 – 2018.09

Land Occupancy: 15200 sqm

Gross Floor Area: 700 sqm

Structure: Steel Frame

Structural Consultant: Peng Li, Wang Mingxing

Mechanical and Electrical Consultant: Xu Xiaofeng, Du Feng, Lan Yulun

Ecological Toilet Consultant: Zou Hai

Curtain Wall Consultant: Xie Zaixing

Construction: Jiangsu Qi An Construction Co., Ltd.

Building Material: Black Plastic Wood Panel

Landscape Material: Shannan Slate Stone

Photography by: Wang Ziling, Nan Mujia, Deqing Quzhen, PURE