伦敦时装周 SS2015 女装设计师亮点赏析

Meadham Kirchhoff: The design duo's anarchic offering threw all fashion rules out the window as they cast real people in their crazy-coloured, costume party of a collection. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Marques' Almeida: After having their way with denim draped into asymmetrical, halter mini dresses, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida toyed with transparent silk ruching, before breaking into panels of kite-like, coloured chiffon. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Issa: Wild horses ran free at Issa under creative director Blue Farrier, followed by Pop Art florals that were realised in both looped macramé and 3D blooms. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Roksanda: Curved colour-blocking met industrial wire-inspired embroidery at Roksanda's electrifying spring show

Anya Hindmarch: The accessory designer took us on a runway ride for spring,  with our seats revolving around the catwalk space like an amusement park attraction. As for the bags? Hindmarch went suitably neon for the fairground

Shrimps: '[It's] part Pleasantville, part Flintstones,' explained Shrimps designer Hannah Weiland of her Spring collection and set design that took inspiration from the Bedrock-like architecture of Jacques Couëlle. Introducing faux stingray and jaguar print to her signature gillet and boxy chubby, she also updated her fluffy clutches with pearl edging, before adding a silk pyjamas collaboration with poplin into the mix. Not to forget her faux fur heels thanks to another pairing with Sophia Webster

Barbara Casasola: Setting the stage, the Brazilian designer once again teamed up with scenographer Mathias Renner for her show's luscious, hothouse backdrop, which perfectly offset her long, lean and sensual offering

Barbara Casasola: Taking us back to the 1990s, metallic rib knit became slinky tank dresses and hip-skimming tube skirts, as cut-out body suits were tucked into plissé pleated maxi skirts. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Mulberry: Despite the continued absence of a creative director, Mulberry's in-house team did a smashing job. Inspired by the quintessentially English garden of Sissinghurst, the collection honed in on delphinium and cow parsley motifs, which were laser-cut, beaded and screen printed into and onto all matter of leather and silk tea dresses, while clumpy heels took their cue from gardening clogs

Mulberry: Expanding upon the outdoor theme, the house's accessory team debuted its genius new two-in-one Delphie Duo bag that can be changed over from its woven trellis finish to minimalist plain leather in one quick flip

Hunrod: Rick Owens' wife and creative collaborator Michèle Lamy and American jeweller Loree Rodkin were in town to debut their Hunrod collection of tribal rings and crystal chain necklaces at London's Dover Street Market

Vivienne Westwood Red Label: The politically vocal designer used the timeliness of her Red Label show to pin Scottish pro-independence badges to her draped dresses. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Yohji Yamamoto 'Urban Nomads' exhibition: To celebrate the London Design Festival, Torsten Neeland presented an installation of products for both living and retail environments at Yohji Yamamoto's London store. Neeland honed in on 'unseen products' such as clothes rails and coat hangers, with different styles of hangers to support different types of clothing. Clothes rails were produced in maple, while the three styles of hanger were also fashioned out of wood, but with the addition of cork to support different fabrics without damaging them. The installation was accompanied by a photographic exhibition of images by Thomas Krappitz

Dinosaur Designs: Renowned for its colourful resin jewellery and homeware, Australia's Dinosaur Designs has opened its first European store within London's Ham Yard hotel, designed by award-winning Australian architect Iain Halliday of Burley Katon Halliday

Topshop Unique: The British high street brand nodded to the 1960s with a sportswear inspired collection. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Edeline Lee: The London-based Canadian teamed up with luxury paint and wallpaper specialists Little Green to create a series of house-proud mise-en-scènes complete with layered digital screens elements for S/S 2015

Moda Operandi: We took a tour of the American e-tailer's new private shopping salon on London's Grosvenor Crescent Mews

Moda Operandi: Designed by Fran Hickman, the pretty-in-pink space spans two lavish floors

Natasha Zinko: The London-based designer may be known for her playful jewels (and more specifically her trademark bunny ear rings), but she set sail with a ready-to-wear offering for S/S 2015. Kicking off London Fashion Week with a breakfast at Claridge's, the Central Saint Martins graduate presented a nautically nuanced salon collection that saw deep-sea pearls decorating the straps of cocktail dresses and silken slippers, as ruffles were inserted into pastel hued brocade separates...

Natasha Zinko: …not to overshadow her latest jewellery offering of gold-dipped anchors that were conceived with an Art Nouveau flourish

Christopher Raeburn: The British designer has never met an anorak he did not like, and this season he experimented with the utility piece, shape-mixing transparent fabric, swirls of marbling and a camo-esque print inspired by the decommissioned aircrafts that litter the Arizona desert. Best in show: Raeburn's forest green 'Cool Wool' mini, parachute rucksacks and his runway ready 'Reef' sandal - that's sure to keep this his utopian traveller marching forward. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

keywords:London Fashion Week, S/S 2015, designers, womenswear, fashion

关键词：伦敦时装周，2015年S/S，设计师，女装，时尚