Podgarić, 2006.

Petrova Gora, 2006.

Kosmaj, 2006.

Tjentište, 2007.

Kruševo, 2007.

Ahhh… this post has been sitting on the back-burner for the longest time, but I decided to dust it off and share it on the day of my arrival in Belgrade. Yes, I’m back in the “old country” for the next three weeks for a huge family reunion. It’s been almost two decades since my whole family’s been together on the home soil, and this time we have so much to celebrate – multiple 60th birthdays, my brother’s engagement, arrival of baby yellowtrace and his baptism… So much goodness, my heart is about to explode!

To mark this occasion, I wanted to post about an amazing book by Antwerp-based photographer, Jan Kempenaers, who spent almost three years photographing “spomenik(s)” [monuments] in former Yugoslavia. Back in the 1980’s, all the dutiful school children in the “old country” took bus trips to visit these extraordinary monuments. I too was one of those children, and I still remember my school excursions so vividly. Writing about this today leaves me intoxicated with memories and melancholy.

Kozara, 2007.

Ilirska Bistrica, 2007.

Jasenovac, 2007.

Niš, 2007.

Kadinijača, 2009.

“Spomenik(s)” were commissioned by the Communist government in memory of victims of the Second World War. Hardly anyone outside of the former Yugoslavia is aware of their existence, and with Yugoslavia no longer being a country, no one really wants to be reminded they are there. Twenty years ago there were thousands of them scattered throughout Ser­bia, Croa­tia, Slove­nia and Bosnia. They have become completely irrelevant in today’s age — their symbolism has been entirely lost in translation. For myself and many others, they serve as a painful reminder of the Balkan tragedy. To the current generation, “spomenik” is nothing more than a bizarre architectural sculpture.

Nevertheless, I find these images powerful and profound. I am sharing them today in hope their strength captures the imagination of those who may not be as sentimental about them as I am. I would also really love to hear what you think of them.

Korenica, 2007.

Makljen, 2007.

Košute, 2007.

“Spomenik” by Jan Kempenaers can be ordered here and here. The publisher also generously provides a page-by-page view of the book which you can access here.

[Images courtesy of Jan Kempenaers.]